Tuesday, December 7, 2010

An unpromising outlook.

Imagine for a moment that you are sitting on a bench near the street outside of your house and a young girl comes to rest beside you.  You notice a storybook in the girl's left hand, and she says she would like you to help her read.
The young girl opens the book and begins reading the first page, which says, "My name is Robert and I am seven years old" underneath a large, colorful drawing of a small boy's face.  The girl reads the sentence without trouble, commenting that the picture reminds her of a boy she once saw begging for food in the city center as she walked with her mother.  On to the next page.
The second page of the book is filled with a picture of a giant gorilla, frightening at first glance but whose gentle, warm face quickly reassures you that he means no harm.  Above the picture, at the top of the page, are the words, "My name is Buddy.  I am a gorilla."  The girl begins to read.  She finishes the first sentence rapidly and with ease, except for some help pronouncing the name "Buddy", which she says she has never seen before.  As she reaches the word "gorilla" at the end of the second short sentence, the girl's eyes suddenly leave the page of the book and dart up into the sky.  She is in deep thought.  After several silent seconds have passed, she says out loud, and with enthusiasm,

"Grow!"
"No, not exactly," you say to her.  "Look at the word and sound out the letters that you see."
Her eyes remain fixed to the heavens.
"Go!" shouts the girl abruptly.
"No, that's not it," you say.  "Look at the word."
At this point, the girl brings her eyes back to page two of the story book, but only in a fleeting glance before returning her gaze skyward.  She is, once again, in profound contemplation.
"Greet!" she blurts out loudly.
"No, try again," you respond.
The girl is clearly lost inside of her mind.  You realize now that her strategy for reading, rather than looking closely at the word and sounding out each letter in order to pronounce it correctly, is to look only at the first letter of the word and then rifle through the filing cabinets of her mind in search of any word she is familiar with that begins with the same letter.  She shouts out each of these words as she comes across them in her mental notebook (of which most of the pages are blank), effectively providing a complete and completely blind guess of the actual word on the page in front of her.  This is absolute madness.  Think about it.
By this time, the girl's mind is becoming tired and confused.  After trying the word "greet" unsuccessfully, her mind pick up on the final t and, somehow forgetting that the initial word (gorilla) begins with a g, she quickly shouts "truck!", but before you have even a second to politely inform her, once again, that she is wrong, the girl tries her luck again, this time with something that incorporates her previous attempt, but which is not even a word.
"Trucklepus!" she says with satisfaction, as though she has finally gotten the word correct and can now happily move on to page three.
"No!" you yell with frustration, amazement and a tint of sadness.  "What is a trucklepus?" you ask sternly.
"I don't know," says the girl calmly and in a tone that clearly reveals disappointment and defeat.
Feeling bad at the girl's sense of dejection, you give her a soft pat on the back and encourage her to continue reading.  You tell her, optimistically, that she will get it one day if she only keeps trying.  But as she gets up and walks away, you cannot help but feel with certainty, after such an odd and unfortunate incident, that the girl will, in fact, never learn to read.
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The story above is based on an actual event that happened to me not long ago-- the main ideas in it are all true.  The "young girl", in reality, is not so young.  She is seventeen years old and attends eighth grade at a public, government-run school in Kumasi, here in Ghana.
Working with many students over the past year, I have seen this reading strategy, which is unusual at best and completely ineffective at worst, time and time again.  Nearly all of the students I recognize it in attend public, government-operated schools.  I do not wish to suggest that all of the students attending public schools do not know how to read, but spend some time talking with young boys and girls anywhere in Kumasi, whether they be six or sixteen, and you will quickly see that the public school system here has big, big problems.  Allow me to explain.
Rose is a young girl of thirteen years who lives in the house where I currently stay and attends sixth grade at a public school in the neighborhood.  She has attended public school for the past seven years-- since kindergarten-- and the primary language of instruction during that time has been English.  Her teachers speak English during lectures each day, they write class notes in English on the blackboard, and students are expected to speak English during class discussions.  There are, in fact, penalties for speaking the local language of Twi in the classroom.  Open up any of Rose's school notebooks and you will find page after page of notes neatly written in English.  There is only one problem, and it's big: say only a sentence to her and you will quickly realize that Rose does not understand or speak English at all.  Needless to say, she cannot read.  What about the notebooks full of class notes written in English?  Rose simply copies notes from the blackboard into her notebook, but she does not understand a word of what she has written and cannot read a single sentence of it to you.  I am serious.  How does she pass her classes and continue moving on to the next grade level each year?
In Ghana and in many other areas of the developing world, students learn through rote memorization.  Schools usually do not have material resources-- books or other-- with which to go deeply into any subject, and individual topics often are not connected to larger ideas or theories, or to alternate beliefs.  Students simply memorize facts as though those facts were fixed, and isolated from all other things in the world.  What is a community? will be written on the board, and in order to memorize the response, the students will spend fifteen minutes of their one-hour of class time chanting the answer over and over again in unison, as though they were robots programmed to behave in this way.  A community is a group of people who live together and share common activities, beliefs and space is all that they are taught.  No mention of the many different types of communities in the world, their various purposes, cultural differences in the way the term is defined, or simply the fact that members of a community do not necessarily live together and share the same activities, beliefs and space.  Back to the question of how on Earth Rose is able to pass her classes without even a basic understanding of English.
When a short reading passage and related questions are given on an exam, the questions usually do not require the student to do any kind of analysis of the topic or to connect different ideas and formulate a unique and thoughtful response.  Rather, questions are written in such a way whereas the correct answer can be found, almost word-for-word, within the given text.  So although she understands neither the reading passage nor the questions, Rose is able to look at a question and scan the text for a sentence or group of sentences that contain some of the same words as the question itself, and write those sentences down as her answer.  What she has written probably is not exactly the correct answer, but it may be close enough to award her the points necessary to just barely pass the exam.
Rose's situation, as well as that of the girl who came to me seeking help with reading, may appear extreme, but I talk to children nearly every day who attend public school, and have done so since infancy, and cannot read, write, or speak English correctly or at a level that is anywhere near the proficiency one would expect in a child of their age.  These are stark and sad indications of the quality of the public education that some 80% of Ghanaian children are receiving, and they present a rather bleak, hopeless forecast of the likely prosperity and quality of life for such children in the future.  But what exactly are the problems facing the public education system in Ghana and what can be done to eliminate them?
There are, of course, many factors large and small that play a part in making the public education system as broken and ineffective as it appears to be today.  But perhaps the largest cause is that students simply are not being taught in the classroom.  
A recent BBC report found that students in public schools in Ghana-- a majority of Ghanaian children-- actually receive instruction by their teacher, on average, for an appalling seventy days of the one-hundred-ninety-day academic year.  Barely more than two months of school each year.  Something is terribly wrong. 

This is probably due to the fact that public school teachers are often unqualified, uncommitted and simply uninterested in showing up for work nearly as often as they are required to.  Growing up in the US, I tended to believe that it is most often the case that one chooses to be a teacher because of a passion for the field and a deep concern for student achievement and success.  My experience working with teachers in West Africa, including Ghana, tells me that individuals rarely choose the teaching profession for these commendable reasons.  I can easily recall several teachers over the past few years who made no attempt to hide their contempt for the stupid, ignorant students in their care and who openly insulted students that were struggling to understand class material, and who clearly needed patience and compassion rather than harassment.   In a country where good work and a reliable salary are very hard to come by, it seems that the guaranteed monthly paycheck that teaching provides becomes the primary motivating factor for many who choose the profession.
I once heard the story of a teacher who came into the classroom, promptly filled the entire blackboard with notes and ordered the students to quietly copy everything into their notebooks.  The teacher, meanwhile, took this opportunity to call customers on his cell phone.  He is a business man who imports household goods to sell on the local market-- a job that he will tell you he does "on the side", but which, in reality, takes up more of his time and attention than his primary job of teaching.  Students soon began raising their hands to ask questions about what the man had written on the board, but he sternly told the pupils there would be no questions and that they should copy the notes quickly and then remain silent until the end of the class period.  No discussion; no interaction; no learning.  Imagine this.
Another likely factor that contributes to the current sad state of the public education system is that the textbooks which are used in class are, in general, very poorly written and offer an extremely simple, sometimes incorrect explanation of the subject.  The reasons for this are quite interesting.
In Ghana, just about anyone who knows how to pick up a pen and scrawl out his or her name can write a textbook, have it mass-produced quite inexpensively in a 9" x 7" 60-70 page soft-cover format, and distribute it to various schools to be used as the primary textbook for instruction in the classroom.  And this is exactly what people are doing.  The authors of these textbooks tend to be university graduates, but many of them hold only a bachelor's degree, and it is too often the case that the degree they earned is not in the same subject as that of the textbook they have written.  Holding an undergraduate degree from a university hardly qualifies a person to author a textbook that will be used to teach students.  Many of the authors of these books boast on the back cover of the book of having passed junior high school and high school with A's and B's, or sometimes with distinction-- facts that do nothing to assure me that the content on the pages of the book is quality, professional and correct.  Dozens of these kinds of textbooks are produced in a variety of subjects and used in schools throughout Ghana.
I was once teaching an English class at the junior high school level using one of these amateur textbooks and I began noticing the occasional grammatical or spelling mistake as I was reading it and preparing my lessons.  Upon closer inspection of the book, I discovered several of these errors-- grammatical mistakes, missing articles, incorrect subject-verb agreement, incomplete sentences, incorrect or missing punctuation, and words spelled incorrectly or used improperly-- on every single one of the sixty-eight pages.
A friend of mine-- a British man teaching alongside his wife at the same school as I-- was casually reading the science textbook he used in his class when he saw a basic scientific experiment presented on the pages before him.  The conclusion of this particular experiment-- the main idea that it was meant to teach-- didn't quite make sense to my friend.  He said it did not seem correct, though he doubted himself because he assumed that such a glaring mistake could not possibly be found in a school textbook.  After briefly researching the topic on the internet, however, he discovered that the experiment presented in his textbook was, in fact, completely wrong.  The conclusion simply was not true.
If the textbooks used in class do not contain quality, correct information, then it seems unlikely that students will receive anything but a poor, incomplete education.  And if teachers do not care enough about their positions to follow proper teaching protocols, answer students' questions and provide adequate academic support, or to even show up to school at all, then Ghana's public education system likely will not make substantial positive progress in the foreseeable future.  I am sorry to say that the outlook, in my view, is not very promising.

The costs of life.

In the United States, we live each day in a culture of consumption.  Messages coming from all directions tell us that if we are to be happy, popular, successful, valuable, we must buy and consume more and more things.  And we have done exactly that.  But because the numbers of things we desire and are told that we need in our lives are virtually endless, and our incomes are not, many of us-- perhaps most of us, I fear-- have found ourselves drowning and dying in debt.  This debt creates in us a great deal of stress and anxiety that negatively affects our health, happiness and the quality of the relationships we have with those around us.  Life does not have to be this way.
One of the things I love most about living in Africa is the simplicity of life here and the extremely low cost of living.  Comparing the cost of living in the United States with that of Ghana can be tricky, because along with a large difference in prices also exists great disparity in the quality and variety of goods and services available.  The comparison is interesting, nonetheless.  Allow me to explain.
Food and beverages likely constitute one of the largest areas of expenditure in our lives, so let me begin there.  If you are a bachelor in a large city in Ghana, like I am, you may not have family members who cook for you.  Because it is almost exclusively the females that prepare food in most African societies, your status as a single adult male means you are left with little choice than to buy your meals from women who sell food in small shacks along the streets and in back alleyways in the downtown area of the city.
These shacks are called Chop Bars and usually serve the following items: rice, fried or boiled plantains, fried chicken and fish, beans, spaghetti, boiled or fried yams, salad, and local dishes called banku, kenkey and fufuo, each of which is made from cooked corn, plantains, or cassava (or a combination of the three) that is pounded into a thick dough (imagine raw bread dough-- the appearance and consistency is the same) and eaten with either puréed red peppers, okra stew or soup made with peanut butter.  Other street vendors sell fried eggs and bread, porridge made from corn or millet, and coffee and tea in the mornings and late at night.  I eat breakfast, lunch and dinner from these chop bars every day.
Street food can also be purchased in a different way: it is common throughout the day to see women roaming the streets of the neighborhood in the scorching heat of the sun with a huge, heavy cauldron of cooked food balanced carefully on their heads and a bell to call out to customer ringing repeatedly in their left hand.
For breakfast, two fried eggs inside a large piece of bread costs around $0.55 and a large bowl of corn or millet porridge, or oatmeal, with milk and sugar is the same price.  A large mug of hot coffee or tea is $0.70.
For lunch and dinner, a large bowl of white rice with cabbage or tomato stew on top-- enough to constitute a meal-- costs about $0.50 at a chop bar or from a woman on the street.  A piece of fried chicken or fish is between $0.20 and $0.50 and a bowl of spaghetti noodles with tomato sauce and beans and salad on the side-- again, enough to call a meal-- costs about $0.60.
Awaakye is a dish that comes from the northern, predominantly Muslim region of Ghana and is made of brown beans and brown rice mixed together with your choice of spaghetti noodles, salad, fish, beef, or avocado on the side.  It is topped with a special kind of sauce and is usually eaten in the morning for breakfast (I eat it every morning-- it is delicious!).  A large, filling bowl will set you back around $0.60.
Various food items purchased on the street are also quite inexpensive.  A single large orange costs $0.07 and a banana is about $0.04.  A large pineapple or mango will cost around $0.50 and a large, juicy apple is $0.70.  A small bag of fried, sweet plantain chips is $0.14 and a small, homemade shortbread cookie is $0.07.  A glass bottle of Coca Cola, Sprite or Fanta is $0.40.
In total, my food and beverage expenses for one month are about $60.
Other than food, rent and transportation costs probably eat up a sizable portion of your income.  To rent a 15' x 15' single room in a house, with a shared bathroom, in Kumasi, a city of more than 2 million people, costs $7 per month, with an additional $4 for electricity and $3 for water per month.  A 15' x 15' bedroom with an additional 10' x 15' room attached, and a shared bathroom, is about $10 per month, with the added electricity and water costs just mentioned.  A private apartment with two large bedrooms, a full kitchen and bathroom, a large veranda and a small storage room costs around $100 per month-- expensive by local standards!
In regards to transportation, a majority of Ghanaians do not own a personal vehicle, so most people use public transportation, of which there are two main types: a taxi, either shared or private, and a 15-passenger mini-bus called a "tro-tro."  Tro-tros  A tro-tro from my house to the city center, which is probably only about 5 miles away, costs $0.14 and a taxi, shared with three other people, is $0.24 for the same trip.  A tro-tro trip about 16 across town costs $0.45.  The cost of a private, hired taxi varies because it is always subject to negotiation.  If you are a hard bargainer, you can drive the price down quite low.  The 5-mile trip from my house to the city center that costs $0.24 in a shared taxi is about $1.40 in a private, hired taxi.
In terms of long-distance travel, going from Kumasi to Accra, the capital, is a trip of 150 miles and about 5 hours, and costs $4 in a tro-tro.  The same trip in a large, air-conditioned coach bus is about $10.
Assuming I use a taxi or tro-tro every day, my monthly transportation costs are about $12.
When it comes to health care, costs clearly vary greatly depending on the seriousness of the illness and the extent of the services rendered.  In the United States, health care costs are generally extremely high-- far too much so, as most of those who do not have health insurance are prohibited from seeking basic health services because they cannot afford it.  My limited experience with health care in Ghana has given me an insight into the general cost of services.
In late 2009, I was admitted to the largest and best public hospital in Kumasi extremely dehydrated and with severe abdominal pain that had not ceased for the previous 16 hours.  It was later determined that I had kidney stones.  While at the hospital, I received a general physical examination from a doctor and underwent an ultra-sound scan of my abdomen.  I received an injection of pain medication and eight bags of saline solution administered intravenously throughout the one night that I spent in the hospital.  The following morning, I was given a 10-day supply of pain medication and was discharged.  The area of the hospital where I spent the night was newly-constructed and modern, with the look and feel of any reputable hospital in the United States.  The total cost of services, including medication and an overnight stay in the hospital, was $60.  Unbelievable.
Private hospitals are, of course, more expensive, but they still do not compare, in cost, to any hospital in the U.S.  A friend of mine underwent emergency surgery at a private hospital to remove one of her fallopian tubes.  The total cost of the surgery, 8 days in the hospital and medication was around $900.  Amazing, right?
I should note that public hospitals here are subsidized by the government so that average Ghanaians, whose incomes are very low, are able to access their services.
I must also say that although modern hospitals that use modern medical equipment do exist here, the quality of health care in Ghana, and throughout the developing world, is quite low and the range of service very limited in comparison to the United States or any other developed nation.  With this in mind, one would expect health care costs in Ghana to be lower than in the U.S.  But the extreme degree to which they are lower is a surprise to me.
Medicines purchased at a pharmacy are quite inexpensive, but the way in which they are bought and sold here deserves a bit of an explanation.
First, although doctors at hospitals do write prescriptions for the medications that their patients require, those same medicines can be purchased at any drug store in the country without a prescription.  So prescriptions are largely irrelevant, and are not needed in order to purchase any type of medication.  (Example: I have asthma.  To get an inhaler in the U.S., I must first visit a doctor and convince him that my need for an inhaler is genuine, at which point he will write a prescription.  The doctor's fee is probably at least $50 and the inhaler itself is another $20 to $30 at the pharmacy.  Expensive.  Here in Ghana, I walk into any pharmacy and purchase an inhaler of the same quality as the one in the U.S. for $7.  No questions asked; no prescription; no doctor's fees).
Second, medication here is sold in small quantities that are exactly what the customer needs at the time.  Complain of a headache and the pharmacy will give you a strip of 10 tablets of Paracetemol for $0.07 or a strip of 10 400mg Ibuprofen capsules for $0.21.  Want to buy a powerful prescription antibiotic but only need half of the dose/quantity contained in the package?  The pharmacy will open the box (breaking the safety seal) and use scissors to cut the strip of pills in half.  The remaining half will be sold to a different customer at another time--- without a prescription, of course.
A one-month supply of multi-vitamins is $0.42, Cod liver oil, a daily supplement, is $1.66 per month and garlic capsules, also a daily supplement, are $3.80 for one month.  Doxycycline, a common antibiotic that is taken daily as a malaria prophylaxis, is $2 for a one-month supply.  I once met an American man here who had paid more than $100 for a one-month supply of Doxycycline in the U.S.  Ridiculous.
Most of the medications sold here are generic brands that are manufactured at a very low cost in India.  Others are made right here in Ghana.  But the chemical composition, and thus the quality, of any generic medication, is identical to that of the popular brand name that you know well.  Am I wrong?  The problem, I believe, is that in the United States, many pharmacies do not stock these ultra-inexpensive medications coming out of India, probably because the profit margin on them is low and because the pharmaceutical companies know that Americans, in general, are able to purchase more expensive, name-brand drugs, so that is primarily what is offered on the market.  It could also be that the Indian large-scale producers of these inexpensive medications have it in their business plan to focus primarily on the developing world, perhaps as a kind of social responsibility to supply the world's poorest with medicine they desperately need and at a cost that they are able to bear.  I'm not exactly sure.
Clothes.  Most of us love to go shopping for new clothes, and we probably spend a lot of money in the process.  In Ghana, a lot of new clothes come from China and are of a very low quality.  The second-hand clothes market here is huge, however, and it is there that one finds quality, fashionable items for next-to-nothing.

There is a particular street in the downtown area where you will find huge piles of clothes on the ground lining the sidewalks for hundreds of feet-- all second-hand, imported from Europe and the United States, and all super cheap.  Long- and short-sleeved button-up shirts are separated into piles based on quality and price.  The lowest price is $0.70 per shirt-- all are free of stains and imperfections, but these tend to be older and less-fashionable than some of the more expensive shirts.  The next price is $1.40, and it is in these piles that one can find some killer shirts.  I once found two genuine Ralph Lauren long-sleeved polo shirts, each $1.40 and in perfect condition.  Most of the shirts come from Europe, and some are even custom-made from tailors in Italy, France and the United Kingdom.
Second-hand jeans, also from Europe and the U.S., are around $3 per pair.  A friend of mine once found a pair of Seven jeans for $5 (if you don't know, Seven jeans retail for something really ridiculous like $140 per pair).
Finally, let's talk about houses.  If you are ever interested in building your own home in Ghana and staying for awhile, you can be sure it won't break the bank.  A 3,500 to 4,000 square-foot (big!), two-story house with six or seven bedrooms and a few bathrooms, complete with a brick wall encircling the house and yard to provide privacy and security, can be constructed from scratch for around $60,000.  Seriously.