Saturday, May 1, 2010
On love, in alarm.
Monday, March 15, 2010
Dear Mother Africa
I am writing to you today with a heart that is at once hurting and happy, and a mind that is still at least a little bit unsure. For the past three years, our lives and hearts have been entangled as we shared in happiness, joy, sadness, frustration, loneliness, laughter, learning and love. We committed ourselves long ago to a life lived as one, and the time we have spent together has truly been a blessing. But after much questioning and careful contemplation, I have decided that the time for change has come. I am leaving you.
The standard line at a time like this is, "It's not you, it's me-- I am just not ready for a relationship right now. I need some time to be alone." But in this case, the truth is that it's both of us. Right now, I don't have the knowledge or experience that I need to help you and your extended family in a way that is sustainable, far-reaching, and real. And despite the wonderful experiences we have shared and the knowledge you have allowed me to gain, you are far too different than me in far too many ways for me to carry on living as your partner, lover and friend. I am sorry.
For those who know very little about you, the mentioning of your name evokes images of death, disease, poverty and powerlessness. But the privileged who have come to know you well, as I have, easily recognize that behind the sickness and worn clothing lies a woman that is incredibly kind and generous, and whose loving, lighthearted and undying spirit, visible in the harshest of environments and most trying of times, shines brighter than that of anyone I have ever met. Of the many things you have taught me, by far the most powerful and important is how to stay hopeful in conditions that are clearly desperate, remain resilient in the face of adversity that appears unbeatable, to laugh even when the hardships that invade every day of your life make you want to cry, and to have faith that life will one day be better. It will get better, I promise. Be patient.
Thank you, Mother Africa, for accepting me with your arms open wide, and for continually treating me with a level of kindness, generosity, and respect that now brings tears to my eyes. I will miss you dearly, but will return one day to see you again. Take care. Goodbye.
Friday, November 13, 2009
An Image of Unlikeliness.
Exuding a quiet confidence, she contentedly moves about the Earth comfortably wedged in an on-going state of wonder. How could she not? The endless complexities of nature and of humankind, revealed to her through the simple, seemingly-insignificant interactions of each passing day, often leave her astonished, immensely appreciative, giggling. She is curious and ever-questioning; skeptical.
Unwaveringly optimistic, she views the world around her as a place where, contrary to widely-held belief, people are generally peaceful and loving toward one another, and where fear is most often unfounded. She believes undoubtedly that humans are good by nature and she views our shared desires—for peace, love, dignity, purpose, respect—as opportunities for the creation of dialogue, friendship, and understanding. She sees the incredible diversity in human thought, belief, and being as one of life’s greatest yet under-appreciated gifts; the diversity of non-human life simply astounding.
She is tireless in her efforts to offer hope to the many who hold none, awaken inspiration in the hearts of the ignored, and to give love to those who receive far less of it than they rightly deserve. Suffering and injustice, she believes, must be fought against, in manner large and small, by each and every one of us, as their victims, regardless of color, caste, or location, are our brothers and sisters of humanity, to whom we are inescapably linked. And so she gives herself—fully and without charge—to the causes that so often call her to responsibility.
Her heart, whose massive size is matched only by the extent to which it is blind, contains a very special place reserved solely for children, within whom she sees an intense, undying sense of curiosity that is both familiar to her and incredibly refreshing. And it is in the company of kids that her most-admirable qualities become unmistakably clear: she is gentle and patient, understanding and warm. What a wonderful mother she is sure to be.
A profound joy for learning and discovery, cultivated slowly during childhood years, sent her on an on-going personal quest for knowledge that is not likely to expire until the day that she does. She views the seemingly-endless capacity and power of the human brain as one of the greatest wonders of the world, and admires enormously those who set out to test its limits. From years of quietly observing the events and realities of the vast world around her has evolved one of her most firmly held beliefs: that the opportunity for personal enrichment, economic improvement, and expanded influence in an ever-accelerating world lies squarely in education. She believes that a sharp, intelligent mind is one of the most valuable assets one can possess.
Finally, she believes in love. Though fiercely independent—both in thought and in action—she recognizes easily the sense of fullness and deep delight that an honest and complete commitment to love another human being can provide, and she longs for the opportunity to surrender a small piece of her independence in order to have that feeling rest safely inside of her.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Just a quick update to let you all know that I'm alive and doing well. The community sanitation project that I had been working on since May, 2008 has finally come to an end, which means that my last two months in Mali will be spent watching CSI and swimming/fishing in the Senegal River-- good times!
Exactly two months from tomorrow, I will be jumping on a bus and leaving Mali for Ghana, where I'll be volunteering at a local NGO in the city of Kumasi, doing HIV education and working with some local orphanages. I'm pretty stoked! I'll be there for awhile- possibly a couple years or more.
I just uploaded a dozen or so new photos under the title "2009" in the right sidebar. Check 'em out.
Also took a few short videos of some kids in Bafoulabe. Click below.
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Oh, happy 4th of July:)
-B
Friday, May 15, 2009
I thought I would check-in while I'm around an internet connection. All is hot and well here. I spent the last three days in Bamako planning my departure from Mali at a Close-of-Service Conference with the 50+ other volunteers in my group. It's difficult to believe, but my time in Mali will soon be over-- September 25 is scheduled to be my final day as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I love many of the people I have lived and worked with during the past two years, and leaving them will be unbelievably difficult.
As of now, I am still planning on moving to Ghana directly from Mali, but am still trying to figure out exactly what I will be doing when I get there. I'll keep you posted.
I just uploaded about 30 new photos to the "2009" album-- find it under the photos heading in the right sidebar.
I hope all is well.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
I just returned from vacation in Togo and Benin a couple weeks ago. Photos are under the title "Vacation II" in the right sidebar. Enjoy.
Life here in Mali is pretty alright. Hot season is definitely upon us-- it stays about 104 degrees inside my house during the day and down to about 93 degrees at night. The outside daytime temperature is crazy-hot and the nighttime low is about 80 degrees (which feels chilly enough to have to cover myself with a sheet-- I'm going to die when I return to the U.S.!).
I am expecting to be leaving Mali around September or October of this year (only six months or so from now!) and plan to move to the coast of Ghana, where I am hoping to find some type of development work.
I hope life is swell. Take good care.
-B
Monday, March 2, 2009
Vivant
Just a quick note to let you all know that I'm alive and doing well. I'm in Bamako at the moment, getting ready to head out on vacation to Benin, Togo, and Burkina Faso. I'll be gone for about two weeks-- should be a blast.
Life is hot but good. Mango season is about to start, which will make things even tastier.
I just uploaded 50 or so new photos under the album "2009" on the right sidebar. Check it out-- they're pretty good!
Take care.
-B
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Update
Not a whole lot of exciting things happening in my corner of the world. The rainy season is officially over and the the cold season has begun, which is wonderful. It has been getting down to a low of around 60 degrees in the middle of the night, which feels cold! after being in the Mali heat for so long. It is still around 95 or so during most days, and doesn't get much cooler than about 84 degrees inside my house.
My phone number has changed, for anyone who is thinking of giving me a ring. Check it out on the sidebar on the right side of the screen.
I am in the process of uploading new photos-- check the "Vacation" and "2009" albums for a little bit of visual pleasure.
That's all. I hope life is treating you all well.
Take care.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
PHOTOS
I recently returned from a two-week vacation in Ghana and the Ivory Coast. The photos are posted under the link "Vacation" on the right sidebar. Enjoy:)
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
The story of a young girl.
The image is striking, to be sure, and is meant to invoke any number of intense emotions—sadness, astonishment, heartache, anger, disbelief—that will motivate you, the viewer, to contribute a small amount of money to help improve the life of this one child and those of the many other children who live each day in similarly-deplorable conditions. But within your life of fortune and general luxury, you may have never actually come face-to-face with a reality as shocking as the one depicted on the screen in front of you, and so such a scene becomes somewhat difficult to believe.
Conditions couldn’t possibly be that bad for a great number of people beyond this little girl and perhaps others that live nearby, you tell yourself. She must be “the worst of the worst”, chosen to be plastered across the TV screen in order to ensure a steady supply of sympathy and donations, right? Human waste and garbage doesn’t really fill all the streets and alleyways of this small town, does it? And there must be little chance that she is actually malnourished—there is so much food in this world!
You are told little more than her name and that she needs your help, and so you simply don’t know the extent of the poverty that this young girl lives in each day. You don’t know her story. If you will imagine that this child lives in a small rural village in Mali, West Africa, however, I will tell you her story.
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The young girl that you have seen on your TV screen is nine years old, and in a country with a death rate of 22 percent for children under the age of 5, you might say that she is lucky to be alive. The environment in which she lives can most simply be described as extremely isolated and inadequate; the resources, few. The small village that she calls home is situated at the edge of the Senegal River, which happens to be the only source of water—for drinking, washing, cooking, bathing, etc.—that the four-hundred-plus inhabitants have access to. The village itself is some sixty kilometers (thirty-seven miles) from the next town—a distance most often traveled, very slowly, in a small cart pulled by an under-weight and over-worked donkey. (The same mode of transportation is used for any items or materials too heavy to balance on the top of one’s head.)
The girl lives with her father, his two wives, and her nine brothers and sisters in three very small round houses made of mud and straw (note: polygamy is both legal and widely-practiced within Muslim society—a man can have up to four wives). Not far from their concession lie two large fields that act as a significant source of food for the large family—just before rainy season each year, the young girl’s father spends nearly ten hours per day plowing the earth with a small tool that fits perfectly in the palm of his hand. (Some seventy-percent of the country’s labor force does the same.) Other than the corn and peanuts that are cultivated on these two plots of land, the girl and her family eat rice or pounded millet (a grain) for lunch and dinner nearly every single day. Fruits and vegetables are extremely limited, as is meat.
Because electricity is not available, many residents of this small village navigate each night with the dim glow of a small flame burning inside a kerosene lantern. Food is cooked outdoors, inside of large caldrons that sit on three large rocks over a small (and extremely energy-inefficient) wood-fueled fire.
In the absence of any type of medical center or hospital, the only health care options available to this girl are natural remedies suggested by a traditional healer, or nothing at all. Malaria, Tuberculosis, and Cholera are a few of the sicknesses that all-too-commonly strike the local population.
A small six-classroom school is located at the edge of the village, but because of the extraordinary amount of work and energy that cooking, cleaning, and caring for five children under the age of six requires, this young girl’s father has decided that she will not be attending school in the upcoming year. Family is more important, and so she will remain at home each day and help her two mothers with chores—the opportunity for education denied.
Just as there is no electricity or clean water in this girl’s village, there too is no sewage or garbage disposal system—yes, the streets and alleyways really are covered with trash and waste. Children and grown men often urinate on the ground wherever they may be when the urge arrives, and the narrow dirt roads throughout town are spotted with puddles of stinking bath water that flows from the latrines of nearby homes. The sight of emaciated animals rummaging through piles of garbage looking for food is a common one.
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So that is the young girl’s story. If it ended with her and the others in her small village, then we would probably all feel pretty comfortable with the way the world currently works. But it doesn’t, and so we just can’t.
The story told above—of the young child you once saw on your TV screen—is similar, in many ways, to the stories of some three billion people on this earth. Many have dark skin. Many live in Africa or Asia. Many are living every day in conditions so deplorable they are difficult to believe. Believe it, and be upset about it.
If the well-groomed elderly man has already convinced you to donate money, I suggest you continue to do so. But beyond that, I encourage you to read books, watch documentaries, pick through the news, and put some sort of significant effort towards gaining an accurate image of the way the “other” half of the world lives. Learn about the mechanisms, policies, and government leaders that are keeping poor countries locked in poverty. Visit these places to gain the valuable insights that no other experience will offer. Take a step outside of the comforts of your own world and familiarize yourself with the very discomforting reality of another—one that you may know very little about, and which half of the world’s population knows far too well.
(Note: when I first arrived in Mali and began to witness and experience the many inadequacies and struggles that exist in everyday life in this country, I was shocked and bothered. After spending quite some time here, however, I must say that those same unfortunate realities now bother me much less—because perhaps more powerful than the sense of astonishment that such conditions exist in this world is the feeling of wonder at how the people in such harsh, resource-scarce environments are able to continue to live seemingly-happy lives. It is important to note that life in the developing “third” world is not all about poverty and despair. Life everywhere, after all, is largely characterized by balance and equilibrium. And if there is one thing that humans universally do extremely well, it is that we adapt to the environment in which we find ourselves. And so alongside all the hardships and challenges that are ever-present here in Mali also exist many moments and sources of joy and satisfaction. Children will sing, dance, and play, regardless of the state of the world around them. Men and women will always form friendships, families, and connections that they will celebrate with laughter and love, the best they know how. As humans, we naturally focus on the things that bring joy and happiness—I have done the same thing here in Mali. But in order to remain motivated and not lose touch with my primary reason for being here, I must remind myself that although life throughout the developing world certainly can (and, in fact, always will) contain laughter, happiness, love, and good times, it is still, overwhelmingly, marked by gross inequality, inadequacy, and unacceptable hardship. We should all be extremely bothered by such a fact.)
Friday, May 30, 2008
Photos
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Latest and greatest
I thought I better throw a message out to the world while I’m around an internet connection.
Things here in Mali are going pretty well— I’m still healthy, happy, and enjoying life. The last couple months have been super hot—probably around ninety-five degrees in the shade—but the fact that I have a refrigerator at my house (unlike ninety-nine percent of volunteers) probably means that I can’t complain a whole lot. Ice cold water is a beautiful, beautiful thing—don’t forget that.
I still help out with English classes at both the elementary school and high school in my town, which continues to be a lot of fun. I am also still giving private English lessons to two young guys a couple days per week. They have actually become pretty good friends of mine, which is nice. Almost the entire community of BafoulabĂ© (my town) knows me by now, but most of the connections I have with people are based primarily on a daily exchange of greetings and small talk—not much else—so it’s great to have some closer friends that I can actually spend time with and get to know on a more personal and deeper level.
I recently painted a large, colorful mural of Mali inside my house (sorry—I forgot to take a picture!) and it gave me the idea to get five or six young students together in the near future to paint one or two murals in a public space at the elementary school. I would like to do the same thing at the high school, also. I think a huge world map would be interesting, and would help the kids learn more about this wonderful world we live in. We will probably also do a huge hippopotamus (Mali means hippo in the national language of Bambara, and the animal is particularly famous in BafoulabĂ©—there is a huge hippo statue in the center of town).
My good buddy Ryan Shaw, who lives about six kilometers from me, recently taught me all about the magic of using urine as a fertilizer for crops. Our bodies expel tons of nitrogen and phosphorous through our urine, and both are what many vegetables, grains, and fruit trees need in order to grow big and strong (and produce lots of good food for us to munch on, of course). A decent bit of Ryan’s excitement about the concept rubbed off on me, and I am now about to begin the process of teaching the benefits and the application process to locals in my community, and helping them get set-up with the correct urine-collection equipment. My goal is to begin with a group of about ten people and then expand the project to many more once that first group begins to see an increase in their yields and starts to spread the word about it. Considering the fact that around seventy percent of economic activity in this country is agricultural, it seems to me that any new technology or technique has the potential to benefit a huge number of people (which makes me believe that every volunteer, regardless of which sector they are in, should focus some sort of energy and attention towards agricultural work). We’ll see how it goes. Should be fun.
A few days ago, I had a meeting with my homologue (a local Malian man that I work closely with) and some other community members in order to begin planning a large sanitation project that I am initiating and will be a part of. Our goal is to construct a soak pit for three-hundred different families. Right now you have no idea what a soak pit is, but you will in a quick minute. Read on.
Inside every Malian family’s walled concession is a “bathroom” which stands alone about thirty or more feet away from the house, and consists of a small room enclosed by four short mud or concrete walls. There may or may not be a door and/or roof. Inside the “bathroom” is a small hole cut into the floor (usually about a six-inch square) that acts as a toilet would, and waste drops down into a huge space (usually a couple meters long and wide, and a few meters deep) underneath the floor, where it sits and slowly decomposes. It functions like a port-a-potty does, except that it is never emptied with a pump.
Also inside this “bathroom” is where a person washes him or herself with water from a small bucket (running water inside of a family’s concession does not exist in rural towns and villages). Because of the frequency that Malians bath, it is not possible to have bath water run into the same large hole that human waste is deposited into, because it would fill up quite quickly. So, in the absence of any type of sewage or plumbing system, dirty water from bathing drains out of the “bathroom” through a tiny hole or short pipe and into the public street outside of the family’s concession (as most “bathrooms” are constructed on the perimeter of the walled concession). The result, as you can imagine, is an ever-present and ever-growing amount of disgusting, stinky water that sits stagnate on nearly every street in town and becomes a breeding ground for mosquitoes and, unfortunately, a water source for a variety of animals to drink from. It is quite a terrible sight. Now, a soak pit is a large hole (usually around one-meter cubed) that is constructed directly outside of the “bathroom” where the dirty bath water exits onto the street, and simply acts as a way to catch that dirty water and trap it underground, where it will filter through the earth and become clean once again. Each soak pit is filled to the top with rocks (which provide structural support to prevent someone who walks over the pit from falling in, and to prevent the walls of the pit from eroding into the hole), and a small pipe attached to the wall of the “bathroom” allows bath water to drain into the center of the pit. Each pit is then covered with two layers of thick plastic tarp and covered with dirt. So the finished soak pit is completely hidden from view and effectively traps all of the dirty bath water that exits the “bathroom”. It’s a pretty simple, inexpensive solution to a very wide-spread problem.
A majority of families in BafoulabĂ© do currently have a soak pit, but nearly none of them are covered, so as a result, they are all filled to the top with mud and garbage, which renders them useless—bath water drains into the street as though the soak pit didn’t exist. And imagine the scene during rainy season when it pours rain nearly every day and the streets are flooded with a mixture of rain and bath water.
So the project that I am initiating will involve the re-building of three-hundred soak pits over the span of three or four months. Working with community members, we will employ a small team of four Malian men who will actually do the physical work that each soak pit requires. Each family that decides they want to be a part of the project will be required to dig the hole, obtain the rocks (by either purchasing them or gathering them from the outskirts of town) and actually putting the rocks in the hole. The work team will then come along and attach the pipe with a bit of concrete and cover the pit with plastic and dirt. By the time the project is completed, we expect that quite an improvement will have been made in the appearance and cleanliness of the town. NOTE: If this project sounds like a worthy cause that you might like to contribute to, well, you’re in luck! A portion of the funding will come from a program called Peace Corps Partnership, which is fully supported by donations made online by ordinary (I mean, extraordinary) people just like you! Once I submit the proposal (hopefully within the next month), my project will be put up on the Peace Corps Partnership website, and I’ll post a direct link to it on this blog. Check back soon!
Thaaat’s about all for now. Oh, a few highlights for the months to come: For the Fourth of July, over one-hundred volunteers will be getting together to celebrate and have some good times—fishing, swimming with the hippos, playing with wild monkeys, eating good food, and making some good memories. I’m excited. And for two weeks in late July, I’ll be going on vacation to Ghana (an English-speaking country—wooo-hoooo!) and the Ivory Coast with three friends. Should be a blast!
Wherever you are and whatever you’re doing, I hope you are healthy and well. Take care.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
The past few months.
Life in Mali is good-- not wonderful but definitely not bad. We’re heading into the hot season now, which will be a bit tough-- it’ll be around 105 degrees in the shade for the whole months of May and June, and not much cooler than that at night. It has already begun getting hotter during the last month or so, and the heat definitely has a negative effect on the motivation level of everyone, including myself. It’s just too hot to go out and do any kind of work in the direct sun during the day.
Speaking of work, I haven’t done a ton of it up to this point. I think a lot of people have an image of development work as rapid, and improvements and change being life-altering and quick. The truth is that integrating into another culture takes many, many months, and progress comes very slowly and in small steps. Since being here, it has become clear to me just how much Americans measure success by tangible results and by doing things-- we constantly think we have to be completing tasks, staying busy, and always getting things done in order to have an impact and make a difference. But we’re called human beings for a reason, and sometimes we just need to be rather than do.
I have now been living in my town for about six months up to this point. The first three months were pretty much just spent learning about the surroundings, people, language, resources, and needs of the community-- I didn‘t do any real work. For the past three months, I have been occasionally teaching English to a couple of different classes at the local high school and also helping with English lessons at the elementary school three days each week. It’s a lot of fun-- I enjoy being up in front of the class, and the students love having me there. I have also been planning different projects that I would like to do during the next year, and that I will be starting to organize and get the ball rolling on within the next few weeks.
I’m going to teach my villagers how to collect and apply urine to their crops as a fertilizer. The supplies for collecting it (a large jug and funnel) are super cheap and affordable for most people, and the results are huge-- urine is a wonderful fertilizer! My goal is to start with a small group of about a dozen people and teach them all about it and get them committed to trying it, then once they see the results on their crops and gardens, they’ll be stoked and tell others about it-- I want to eventually expand to gardening associations and larger groups of people. I’m going to have the whole town peeing into jugs and putting it all over everything!
I would also like to explore a better garbage collection system for my town-- there is apparently one in place now but it doesn’t seem to be operating very well or efficiently. It’s a typical Malian town-- there is garbage absolutely everywhere. So we need to sensitize people to the benefits of a clean environment and get them to develop some sense of pride for a clean town. I do believe that people want their surroundings to be clean and sanitary, but there just isn’t the correct infrastructure and leadership in place right now to really make it happen. So I’ll be working with a small group of locals to try to improve the garbage situation.
Language is going well-- I didn’t know a word of French when my plane landed in Mali, and now I can understand most of what is spoken to me and can express myself well and as much as I need to. The language dynamic in this country is interesting. French is the official language, but is the second language of everyone here-- each Malian learns the local language of his or her ethnic group from birth. The result is that people almost never use French in daily conversation (since it isn‘t their first language and many do not know it well, if at all), which has made learning the language much more difficult. It’s tough to learn a new language when you are constantly surrounded by people who are speaking a completely different one. But I’m getting by well, and have started to learn Bambara, which is an ethnic language that about eighty percent of the Malian population speaks and uses almost exclusively.
That’s about it for now. I don’t have internet access in my town, and am only online for a few days every two or three months-- the next update probably won’t be for awhile.
Wherever you are, I hope life is beautiful. Take care.
Oh, I added a handful of new photos to the album titled “My Home.” The link is on the right sidebar.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
NEW PHOTOS
There's a new link titled "My Home" on the right side of the page, under "PHOTOS". There are only a few there now, but I will be uploading a couple hundred more at some point during the next two weeks.
Check back often.
Oh, and MERRY CHRISTMAS:)
TONGUE TIED
You have recently arrived in a land far from home, where the values, beliefs, practices, and way-of-life are a bit different than you are accustomed to, but where the people, thankfully, radiate with a sense of kindness and generosity that you are familiar with, and which makes you feel more at home. As you settle into your new life and adjust to the culture and climate that envelop you, it becomes clear that the largest challenge you face—one that you must overcome in order to be successful and retain a sense of connectedness with those around you—is communication.
A simple exchange of dialogue, which used to be effortless, frequent, and enjoyable, is now difficult, uncommon, and often marred by misunderstanding. Intellectual conversation, which was once a great source of satisfaction and connection, now ceases to exist. You may think of yourself as decently intelligent and capable of offering words and ideas that provoke thought and encourage discussion, but the broken, child-like sentences that now characterize your everyday speech show no indication of such intellect. In fact, they may suggest something of the opposite: a simple person with little to offer—not the way you see yourself at all.
But despite the general silence that seems to accompany you most places you go, the kindness and generosity from those that surround you remains ever-present—a fact that you are very much thankful for but which you begin to feel unworthy of. You haven’t done anything, and beyond the abundance of friendly greetings that you offer to (quite literally) everyone you see each day, you speak very little to very few people—held back by the vast amount of local language that you don’t know and surviving with only the small bit that you do.
The days, weeks, and months pass, you continue relying on the relatively small set of vocabulary that (by now) you know well, and the people around you continue to treat you as one of their own—with respect and generosity—for seemingly no other reason than that you are here with them, now, sharing space and time. But amidst the feelings of connectedness and belonging that naturally result from the actions of such kind individuals lingers a slight but definite sense of isolation. Because you have thoughts, beliefs, values, dreams, history, stories, knowledge, and advice that you desperately want to share and exchange—you believe they do as well—but a barrier of misunderstanding blocks the way, with only the occasional complete idea or sentence breaking through. With the many thoughts and curiosities that crowd your mind each day comes a feeling of frustration in knowing that you cannot vocalize them—at least not completely, correctly, or well enough to be fully understood.
Welcome to Mali.
THEY HAVE EACH OTHER.
The United Nations Development Program’s 2006 Human Development Index ranked Mali as one of the world’s three poorest countries; a 2005 estimate put the percentage of the total population living below the poverty line at seventy-two; life expectancy at birth is very low and infant mortality very high. Adult illiteracy is around fifty-five percent.
As I began telling friends, family, and acquaintances about my upcoming adventure to the West African country, including some of the statistics above, I received the same response that had initially filled my mind: Malian life must be tough; perhaps primitive. How do they survive?
Yes, life is tough—no matter what part of the globe you may find yourself in—but after being in Mali for a few months and seeing the people, the land, cultural practices, beliefs, and way-of-life, I can now easily see how the people here survive: they have each other.
It is an unfortunate fact that a significant portion of the twelve million Malians that inhabit this country are living with very few of the basic resources and needs that most in the developed world have never lived without: paved roads, clean drinking water, electricity, access to adequate health care, a solid education system, an ever-present supply and variety of nutritious food, and the right to freely choose one’s profession, partner, or path in life. These are the basics, and they are in serious short supply. If you are wondering about available luxuries, the answer is that, in the rural areas of the country (where a majority of the overall population lives), there aren’t any.
But what Malians lack in luxuries (and unfortunately, basic needs) they more than make up for in family. No, they don’t have Starbucks on the corner, a shopping mall down the street, or a good friend named Google that they can go to at any time for answers, comfort, and advice, but they have each other, and the value of companionship and genuine human-to-human connection far outweighs that of any lattĂ© I’ve ever had.
In fact, I would even argue that in many areas of the United States (mostly urban, but some rural as well), if you looked past the Starbucks and Wal-Mart, past the 105-inch flat-screen Plasma TV, and in between the millions of pixels on the computer screen that you sit in front of for far too long every day (reading this blog, of course), you would see that we don’t have each other. How do we survive? In a culture that is completely over-saturated with luxury goods and services, we, as Americans, have a serious shortage of what matters most, and with what Mali appears to be wealthy in: real relationships with the people around us. Sure, we have our family, close friends, co-workers, and acquaintances, but beyond that, we are virtually isolated from those that surround us—too much so to even offer a friendly “hello” to the person we pass on the street.
In rural Mali, very much a communal society and atmosphere, everyone is viewed and treated as family and a friend. Walking through the village, you will be warmly greeted by virtually each person you see, and not simply those that pass nearby—friendly greetings shouted from afar are as common as those spoken softly and within close distance. Greetings, it turns out, are an extremely important part of the Malian culture, and are constantly and consistently exchanged between everyone in the community. The mentality: a friend of yours is a friend of mine.
When you enter a family’s compound, whether your relationship with them is long and well-established or not-yet existent, you will be treated with kindness and generosity. If you are hungry and ask for food, you will likely be fed, and if the family happens to be eating a meal at the time, you will definitely be invited to join them at the communal bowl. The mentality: the food that I prepare is not only for me, it is for everyone.
In the rare occasion that a serious crime is committed within the community—theft, assault, harassment, etc.—the people will swiftly join together and organize a plan for dealing with the problem and reaching a solution. The mentality: a threat to you is a threat to the entire population.
It’s easy to look at the resources, money, goods, services, and luxuries that a community, country, or continent doesn’t have and to feel sorry for the people that live there—to wonder how they survive. But what is more challenging (and more important) is to look closely at what it is that the people of those places do have which keeps them generally happy, satisfied, and surviving despite the severe shortage or absence of the important resources on which you may believe that happiness, satisfaction, and survival are dependent (but in fact, as I have seen, are not).
The people of Mali have each other—something that I believe the United States, which has a ridiculous over-abundance of everything else, could use a whole lot more of.
A TONGUE THAT STRENGTHENS YET RESTRAINS
It isn’t until around the age of nine or ten that children begin learning French in school, but if you take the fact that a number of females don’t attend elementary school and a large number who do attend do not continue on to high school, and couple it with the fact that French is almost never spoken by children outside of the classroom, you arrive at an unfortunate conclusion: a large majority of adult women, and some men, do not ever speak French, either because they don’t know how to or because the small bit that they do know would be riddle with mistakes that they are afraid of making. And so what you have, interestingly, is an official language (French) that is virtually only used by people—mostly men—in government or other official business positions (in other words, a very small portion of the country’s population).
The tendency to prefer one’s own ethnic tongue over French (or any other language, for that matter) makes perfect sense—I think it represents a large part of the unique cultural identity that Malians value so much, and which separates them from others (after all, they are neither White nor French). But when the focus on one’s local language comes at the expense of understanding and being able to speak French—a much more useful language—I believe it becomes a poor choice, and one whose disadvantages are perhaps greater than the value of the cultural identity that the ethnic language helps to define.
First, the local languages of Mali are largely unwritten—their speakers begin learning them naturally from birth, and are exposed to them only briefly in school (if they attend). What this means is that those who do not learn to speak French are also likely to never learn how to read or write—adult illiteracy in Mali is around fifty-five percent—and the effects of this are clearly negative and potentially far-reaching. And so the exclusion of French, I believe, has a stifling effect on literacy.
Secondly, while an ethnic language (such as the national one of Bambara) carries with it a great deal of cultural identity and value, such tongues are spoken by few in Mali’s neighboring countries, and (surprise, surprise) virtually nobody in the expansive (and opportunity-filled) world beyond that. And so the ethnic language acts as a kind of restraint, keeping its faithful speakers from ever accessing relationships, resources, people, opportunities, or life outside of Mali and Africa.
The point is not at all that Malians should abandon their native language—the identity it helps give them is extremely important and must be carried on through the generations—but that if such tongues were accompanied by a solid understanding of, and ability to speak, French, it would open the doors to opportunity and improvement that they could then walk through with strong cultural identity and pride in hand. Unfortunately, those who cannot read, write, or speak French are likely to find those doors closed, and opening them again will surely prove difficult.
A DIFFERENT SORT OF DYNAMIC
If I were to make a list of all the different characteristics that my ideal partner might have—the person I may spend the rest of my life with—I have to admit that it would probably be rather long and complicated (hey, in an ideal world, we can have everything we want, right?!). But at the very top of the list, above the abundance of less important items like must love ice cream and will sing with me in the shower would be those relatively few qualities that I respect, and am attracted to, the most—things like honesty, sensitivity, a compassionate and caring heart, genuine respect for one’s self and others, a craving for mystery and adventure, a sense of humor, firmly held beliefs and values, goals and dreams (and the motivation to chase both), and a set of interests that are at least slightly in accord with mine. These are the traits that are most important to me, and whose presence or absence are, at least in some part, the basis on which a potential long-term partner is judged. And although this “list” is mine personally, I assume that a vast population beyond myself would settle on very similar (if not some of the same) qualities—that is, that they are nearly universally valued and sought. After all, they are human characteristics—respect, honesty, a system of beliefs and values, humor, kindness, compassion—and therefore transcend race, gender, class, culture, and geography, right? Perhaps not entirely.
What I am beginning to realize, after noticing a much different and smaller set of valued and desired qualities among Malians, is that many of the traits just mentioned are, in fact, largely shaped by one’s culture and environment, and are at least partially dependent on both the availability of resources and opportunity, and on a knowledge of the expansive world beyond one’s own. A closer look:
It would be very difficult (and in fact, probably nonsensical) to develop and keep a sensitive, soft heart when the environment surrounding you is saturated with struggle and inadequacy. Disease, death, very little (if any) health care, a severe lack of clean drinking water, and a harsh, flood- and drought-prone climate characterize much of Mali—such conditions demand resiliency and create tough and hardened individuals. And so Malians, as far as I can see, are generally not sensitive or soft people—the trait is both valued and sought by few. The result: sensitivity does not make it on the Malian list of desirable traits in a romantic partner.
When a serious lack of resources, money, and knowledge keeps you firmly locked in your poor, routine daily life, it becomes extremely unlikely (although certainly not impossible) that you will develop dreams and goals that lie beyond such an existence—either because you don’t expect to ever break free of poverty or because you simply don’t know what exists in the larger world that you could possible dream about or strive to make a reality. Your goals, in effect, are limited by the absence of the resources that would be needed to achieve them. Here in Mali, where resources and opportunities are scarce and where knowledge of the outside world is rather limited, it appears that goals and dreams are in serious short supply—their existence is both valued and sought by few. The result: goals and dreams (and the motivation to chase both) does not make it on the Malian list of desirable traits in a romantic partner.
A shortage of resources, money, and knowledge also severely limits the hobbies and interests that a person could potentially have. Some of my own interests include photography, music, the studying of psychology, reading, and writing. But the existence of each of these as an interest of mine depends entirely on an environment and a host of resources that, together, have (thankfully) provided me with the opportunity to access and enjoy them—such conditions are clearly not present in many parts of the world. You won’t find reading or writing on a list of the hobbies of someone who never learned to do either; photography is not going to be the interest of a person who hasn’t ever seen a camera; and the studying of psychology (or any other subject/discipline) will not be the favorite of somebody who is the product of a broken education system that never taught, among many other things, the value of knowledge and discovery. And so your interests are both defined and limited by the quantity and quality of the available resources in the environment around you. The result: a set of interests that are at least slightly in accord with mine does not make it on the Malian list of desirable traits in a romantic partner.
So what does all of this mean? Well, besides the fact that I will almost surely not find my future bride in Mali, it means that in the absence of the qualities discussed above, each partner in the rural Malian romantic relationship, interestingly, is both sought and valued for having one primary (and in my opinion, meaningless) characteristic. The details:
Thanks to the rules and dynamic of the religion of Islam, marriage in Mali (a country that is nearly ninety percent Muslim) can almost entirely be described in terms of rigid, firmly established roles. For the man, it is to work—perhaps in agriculture, small commerce, or government service—and earn enough money to support himself and his family completely. He is the sole money-maker, and all the financial needs of each family member depend on him. The woman’s job, in contrast to that of her husband, is to stay home every day and cook, clean, and care for the couple’s children. Her duties likely include sweeping and cleaning shortly after waking up in the morning, walking to the market (where you will rarely spot a man) to buy food, cooking each meal, washing clothes and dishes (by hand, of course), walking some distance to a well to collect water, and bathing her children. When her husband is home, she has the added responsibility of bringing him food and water (or anything else he might want) whenever he demands it—a sort of servant, the way I see it (and one who rarely, if ever, disobeys her husband’s orders or questions the subordinate role she is in).
The dynamic of this typical marriage, although often male-dominated, seems to be one of mutual dependence—men, who never cook and rarely clean or take care of their children, inarguably rely on their wives to do these things each day. Women, who generally do not earn money, depend on their husbands for any need that is financial. And so it is precisely these qualities—in a woman, obedience and the ability to cook and clean well; in a man, the means to make money—and nearly nothing else, which are valued and desired in a potential long-term partner. Their presence, in the eyes of many Malians, seems to create “love” and signal the likelihood of a quality, successful marriage.
But one of the many problems I have with this dynamic is that these qualities can be found in almost any Malian man or woman—yes, she is obedient and can cook and clean well- she has been taught the importance of such things since youth, and yes, he can support you financially- he knows that men like himself are obligated to work and earn money. And so what you have, it appears, is “love” and the conditions necessary for a quality marriage within nearly every person you look—not at all the special and uncommon kind of love that I would like to believe in.
When love and marriage are primarily based on such things as money and the willingness of one partner to be the obedient servant of the other, I believe that they become cheap and meaningless. But this is only true because I am not the product of a society in which love and marriage are commonly this way. For many (perhaps most) Malians, this dynamic is simply life and love the only way they know it. For me, however, it seems rather unfortunate and empty.